In the eastern corner of the Algarve, where wide empty beaches run down to warm seas, Hospedaria is framed by rolling fields flecked with wild flowers. A century ago, this was a post office and general store, and an inn where locals gathered and danced, but last year it was transformed by two energetic romantics, Rui Liberato de Sousa and Nuno Ramos, alongside Lisbon architects Atelier Rua. They preserved the bar’s period tiles, adding neon lighting to illuminate glinting bottles. They carved out a sitting and dining room, both with high wicker-lined Algarvian ceilings and filled with old portraits and contemporary photographs. Beyond, in the lavender-scented garden, water trickles into the pool in the still summer heat as guests spill out into private leafy enclaves. And everywhere a feeling of luxurious timelessness, radiating beneath that blazing Portuguese sun.